Wednesday, July 6, 2011

Australian Daintree Immersion











There’s nothing quite like waking up in a UNESCO World Heritage Rainforest., a primeval place that’s 65 million years older than the vaunted Amazon. In the Daintree of Queensland, Australia, the business day starts early, in the coolness of predawn. Even before the sun begins to press against the darkness, birds, such as lorikeets, black bitterns, fairy wrens, lesser owls, metallic starlings and bee eaters rouse the day with song … and screech. Sleeping in will quickly become a lost habit here, especially at a place like the Daintree Eco Lodge at Spa, which perches you firmly in the middle of action in their treehouse-style bungalows. Most mornings, it sounds as if all 430 species that come and go throughout the year are busy chattering, wooing and calling, as if you need to be in on all the avian gossip. It’s best to just give in and step out into the spectacle, which is exactly what my fiancé and I do.

We’re on road just as the first fingers of sunlight lightly touch the top of the rainforest canopy and push into the shadows of the rainforest in beams of misty light. We’re off to see salties, the big crocodiles that would gladly make us a breakfast snack, that line the Daintree River, along with the river birds that share their world.

As painful as early morning is to us, once we’re on the water, the early morning light and peacefulness on the river is breathtaking. The water seems soft. But, soon our guide is covering the action that would go unseen without expert eyes. We see the blood-red eyes of a Papuan Frogmouth, Azure Kingfishers, Rainbow Bee Eaters, and a jet black Cormorant with wings wide.  Sulphur-Crested Cockatoos raise a commotion in the treetops. The crocs are hiding today, but the birds celebrating a new day.

Back at the Daintree Eco-Lodge, we take a wet hike up to the sacred woman’s waterfall, with a Kuku Yalanji guide, our lungs swelling with the thick oxygen of the forest. Then we settle in by the pond, immersed in the sounds and silence of the rainforest, and learn aboriginal dot-art and the story-telling traditions contained in each dot of paint.

It was time then to just enjoy the stillness. To sit in the hot tub on the porch, idly talking about the world around us, drinking wine, and feeling as is we were being held in the arms of the rainforest.


Where I Stayed: daintree-ecolodge.com.au

Hit the River: daintreerivertours.com.au

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